Big Stage and Small Town

Last Wednesday evening, we went out with Aki and Maria to Politiea, one of the bouzouki bars in Thessaloniki. For anyone who has never been to a bouzouki, calling it a bar is a gross understatement. Politiea is a huge live music venue that seats about 1,500 customers at tables, with a retractable roof and a huge stage. Peggy Zina, an extremely popular singer in Greece right now, was the headliner. The music was so powerful and passionate, it’s nearly impossible not to be moved by it. Peggy Zina sang for about 2 hours, accompanied by a huge band and a fantastic laser and light show. The crowd was a typical Greek bouzouki crowd, meaning they were constantly singing along, dancing on the tables, and more than occasionally spilling onto the stage to dance or shower Peggy with rose petals.

For me, the most impressive part of any night at a bouzouki is after the headline act is complete. At that time (usually around 2 a.m.), a performer (whom I like to call the “closer”) comes on stage to finish things off. The closer is usually a well known Greek singer who perhaps was a headliner in his heyday, and whose niche is now singing all the traditional Greek songs and keeping the crowd happy. A good closer can take a crowd from the end of the headliner’s act and keep it going until the sun comes up. The whole event is party like you simply cannot believe unless you experience it yourself. What’s most impressive is that this party goes on like this, from about 10 p.m. until 5 or 6 a.m., EVERY NIGHT. At one point, with half the crowd on stage and the rest of it traipsing up and down the aisles between the tables, with ouzo flowing, music pounding, and the closer wailing, I recall thinking two things: (1) we have nothing like this in the States, and (2) all these people have to work tomorrow.

We got a late start on Thursday because we didn’t get home until after 4. Quick pita and coffee breakfast at the shop across the street and then we hit the road to visit my aunt in Kolindros. Kolindros is my favorite place in Greece. It’s my mother’s home village, and I was so happy to finally take Amanda there.

Kolindros is a tiny village about 45 km away from Thessaloniki. You drive west on the main highway until you exit for Aeginio and then follow signs towards Kolindros. Next thing you know, you’re in the mountains driving around hairpin curves and dodging flocks of sheep. The town itself has changed a lot; when we stayed with my grandparents there 25 years ago there was still very little electricity and only wood-burning stoves to heat homes. Now, it has grown into a sleepy little town of about 3,000 people with coffee shops, stores, and even a few restaurants.

We rolled into town about 1 p.m. and I immediately knew I would have trouble finding my aunt’s house. I was there just three and a half years ago, but all the tiny cobblestone streets and white homes with terracotta roofs looked the same. We found our way to the platea in the center of town and parked in front of a small store. As I got out of the car, the store owner came out and asked how I was doing. I said that I was fine, thanks, and asked if he by any chance knew my Thia Keti and where she lived. I fully expected him to know; like I said, it’s a small town and everyone knows everyone.

“Of course,” he replied. “Why are you looking for her?”

“She’s my aunt.”

“You’re aunt? Who are your parents?”

I told him my mother’s maiden name. When he stared at me quizzically for a few moments, I thought maybe he didn’t recognize it. Instead, he said, “Your mother is my first cousin.” Now this is understandable, since my mother has over 60 first cousins and I’ve only met half of them. But it was still a nice surprise. (Amanda later said it was her favorite part of the day…she was in the car watching me ask a store owner for directions, she looked down for a moment, and when she looked up again I was hugging and kissing the man.) He introduced himself as Dimitri and I told him my mother would be in town in a couple months. He was delighted to hear this and after we spoke for a few more minutes, he pointed us toward my aunt’s house.

It was wonderful to see Thia Keti again. She's such a caring, animated person and just wonderful to be around. She asked if we could eat a little food. When we said "Yes, we can eat a little," she filled her balcony table up with pork chops, noodles in tomato sauce, keftedes, fresh baked bread, salad, and about seven different kinds of cheese. From her balcony patio we had a breathtaking view of Aeginio, and in the distance, Thessaloniki and the Aegean Sea. We spent the afternoon eating, drinking beer, and catching up.

In the morning, we left for Meteora, which absolutely needs its own post. I've been there before, so I'll let Amanda write it so she can record her first impressions. By the way, we've added a few pics to some of the previous posts, and we promise to add more soon. Until then, yia sas!

Bill